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Tip to Cockatoo Creek
This morning we began our trip southwards from the top of Cape York. Our first stop along the way was at an old World war 2 plane wreck. Our next stop was at another WWII wreck of a DC3.
From the wreck site we travelled a rough track back to the Bamaga road and them onwards to the Jardine Ferry. Once across the river, we stopped and boiled the Billy for morning tea.
Due to the wind and our schedule we elected not to camp at the exposed site at Capt Billy landing. Instead we continued down the road to the southern section of the telegraph track and on to Cockatoo creek.
Cockatoo Creek camp now has toilets and a shelter. Despite the crocodile warning signs, the rope swing over the shallow waterhole is still popular.
Since we were in camp early, we cooked up the two painted vests we got in Bamaga.
Loyalty Beach
This morning the Disco started and drove on to the ferry no problems. We asked Ted and Juanita to drive in front of us all the way to Bamaga just in case they had further problems. We had not gone more than five kilometers when they stopped quickly saying they heard a loud woosh of air. We quickly determined that an intercooler hose had blown off, and soon had them underway again.
The next few days were spent exploring the cape, Thursday Island, and other places. Some people went fishing, and we all traveled as a group to the tip for a photo and celebratory drink.
We arrived at Loyalty beach to an wonderful ovation from all of the rest of the crew who were obviously pleased to see the Disco going again.
Sam Creek to the Jardine
Nolan’s Brook turned out to be the biggest challenge of the trip, as it usually is. This year due to increased traffic it was more difficult than ever.
Ted’s Disco decided to misbehave, with all sorts of electrical issues which we could see was going to take us some so we sent the rest of the group on to the Jardine with just enough time to catch the last ferry. We did as much as we could to solve the electrical issues with the Disco, then towed it to the Jardine camp ground where it decided finally to operate properly.
We camped at the Jardine with Ted and Juanita while the rest of the crew camped at Loyalty Beach.
Dalhunty River to Sam Creek
We enjoyed our time at the Dalhunty immensely. Yesterday Ted welded the tie rod adjuster for Craig’s Mazda at Bramwell Junction, so Craig had continued with us on the OTL witout any delay. We arranged via VKS737 to have a new tie rod adjuster ordered by Cape York Spares and Repairs with the hope that it would be at Bamaga when we arrived. I checked in via HF radio this morning to see how things were going, but there was no news.
We progressed along the OTL without incident, but the excitement was growing as we approached the notorious Gunshot Creek.
On arrival at Gunshot, we found the western entry to be the best choice, but once again the idiot brigade had been there with their logs. Once again with just a few shovels, we improved the entry point sufficiently to allow our vehicles access without risk of damage. A couple still required a small tow through the boggiest section, but we all managed to get through quite safely.
Sam creek proved to be our next challenge when Chris’ Disco II, sans centre diff lock got the front diff stuck on a rock in Sam Creek. Sam Creek is usually not a problem but the Landrover engineers who decided to leave the diff lock selector off the Disco II clearly had never been to Cape York.
After extracting the Disco we camped at Sam Creek.
If I see another 4WDer put a log in mud I’ll hit him with the Log
We got away from the camp , crossed the Picturesque Archer River and soon we were travelling at a good pace on the PDR. We stopped for morning tea at Moreton Telegraph Station under the mango trees on the banks of the Wenlock River. We had been scheduled to stop the previous night at Moreton but were behind schedule. By lunch time we were at Bramwell Junction, ready to tackle the Overland Telegraph Line.
The first challenge on the OTL is Palm Creek, a rough and steep, descent into mud then water. As usual the idiot brigade had cut sections of logs and dropped them into the mud holes to provide high spots for the wheels thus improving clearance. After more than 30 years of off-road driving, I can tell you that such foolishness creates more hazards than it avoids and destroys vehicles. In fact, the next idiot I see putting logs in a mud hole, I’ll belt him over the head with the log- that’s a promise.
We removed every log we could see and in just a few minutes with six people manning shovels, we made the track passable yet still challenging for our group. So please people use crowbars and shovels to move earth, don’ t use logs. In order to drive home the point further, our second car “found” a log on the ascent and broke a tie-rod adjuster, thus rendering the steering useless. So please no more logs in mud holes.
The next creek crossing of significance was Ducie Ck which was a meter deep. We all managed to cross it without any incidents and after a few hours of great 4wding we found ourselves at our camp on the Dalhunty river.
The Dalhunty has esturine crocodiles, but safe swimming can be enjoyed above the falls I’m the shallows.
A Slight Change of Plans
We were running behind schedule due to stopping to assist at a fatal road accident, and due to slower than expected progress on the Laura Coach road. In order to attempt to be on time at our scheduled stop, we elected to change the itinerary, skipping Lakefield NP on the way North, instead doing it on the way south.
That meant today would be a long but easy run up to Archer River , where we had a beautiful campsite.
The morning was spent viewing spectacular aboriginal rock art.
Old Laura Coach Road 2
We left Jessop Ck early, refreshed and ready to tackle our second day on the coach road. Immediately upon leaving camp we were confronted with more washed out creek crossings and rough terrain. It was very slow going all morning. Our morning tea break arrived without any incidents or recoveries required. After our break, we encountered a couple of very steep climbs that required the lower clearance vehicles to be very choosy about their line. Craig’s Mazda had to have two attempts at one climb, but a little guidance saw success on the third attempt.
At about the time Craig was having his third attempt, a 4WD club came up behind us. As the law of the tracks dictates we let the smaller faster convoy overtake us.
In short order we found ourselves crossing the Little Laura river and then onto the good gravel road. Along the way we stopped to assist some
ringers from Olive Vale station who had a ute with a flat tyre. Gathered around the ute was a group of horse riders. A helicopter sat idling beside the road. As soon as the tyre repair was complete the helicopter pilot lept in and the chopper was gone in seconds.
Our visit to Laura coincided with the State of Origin match, so we all had dinner at the pub and watched QLD flog NSW again.
The Old Laura Coach Road
This morning began with a short drive into the site of the old township of Maytown, then we explored several of the old mining sites before setting off on one of the roughest and most challenging tracks on the Cape.
A rough rocky descent into the North Palmer River had everyone anxiously anticipating what lay ahead. A large vertical sided gully in the river bed denied us access to the easier of two climbs out of the river and to the top of the ridge-line. The remaining choice has a very difficult steep climb over large rocks right at the very top of the ridge and immediately prior to that , there is a very steep long climb on loose soil.
Kerry’s 80 series struggled to climb the slope, and at first it simply appeared to be a tyre pressure problem, but it soon became obvious that the centre diff lock was not engaging. A quick inspection under the car found the source of the problem, and much to everyone’s delight Kerry and Janice easily climbed to the top off the ridge.
More Jill climbing rock hopping and creek crossing adventures continued for the rest of the day. We made camp at about 4 pm on Jessop Creek, where I staked a tyre on a very sharp rock.
A good wet season prior gave us yet another camp on a delightful waterhole.
Lappa to Palmer River
We got away from Lappa pretty early, and made our way across the Great Dividing Range into Mareeba. The drive in has some beautiful scenery, especially along the Walsh River.
We refueled and restocked in Mareeba then headed towards the picturesque village of Mt Molloy. From Mt Molloy we ascended the ranges again before turning off the Mulligan Highway on to Whites Creek road. This road used to a fantastic drive along the very tops of the ridges, the climbs were steep, but the views were worth it. The Cook Shire Council in a feat, demonstrating their lack of understanding of the desires of those who visit the area, “improved” the road. This improvement not only caused a well compacted road to break up into bulldust holes, it also took away much of the attraction of driving that road.
Our camp on the Palmer River is a beautiful spot on a small but picturesque waterhole.
Undara to Lappa
We got away a couple of hours later than planned due to Undarra splitting our group into two. One group did the lava tubes tour at 10:30 and returned at 12:30. Flexibility is the key to safe and stress free travel, so some quick changes to the plan would give us a reasonable target for tonight’s camp.
From Undarra to Mt Garnet is a pretty easy bitumen road but we found ourselves first on the scene at a fatal motor vehicle accident and spent an hour assisting there.
Once underway, we reached Mt Garnet where we began our run along the old railway line to Lappa. This is a very picturesque drive with great views. The last wet season caused some serious erosion which made for an even more interesting journey.
We arrived at Lappa with plenty of time to set up camp and inspect the old Espanol Hotel. Australia’s only BYO pub.
The Yappa from Lappa visited our camp site, recited some bush poetry and generally kept us entertained with his antics. We had a fantastic night around the camp fire under a sky filled with stars.
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